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По Кипру на мотоцикле

По Кипру на мотоцикле.

"Если долго ехать - куда-нибудь обязательно приедешь" - почему-то в эти два дня об этом думалось не раз. Однако, лучше вспомнить всё по порядку. Изначально был план взять на сутки скутер 100сс и податься на дискотеки в Ая-напу на всю субботнюю ночь или на почти всю ночь. В субботу утром выяснилось, что со скутом обломс (фара не горит), но мы не отчаялись, а наоборот, сыграли на повышение: на понедельник взял на работе отгул, достал рюкзак и пошел выбирать мотоцикл. Из трёх вариантов (в порядке возрастания цены и кубатуры: эндурик Yamaha DT125, чопик Suzuki 250cc, эндуро Suzuki DR350) был выбран уже хорошо знакомый мини-чоппер симпатишного чёрно-серого раскраса (ну почти DragStar :), так как подразумевалось, что дороги будут в основном асфальтовые, а для 125-ки вес меня с пассажиркой мог показаться великоват... Итак, объём вещей ограничен небольшим рюкзаком, пара полотенец и бутеров, 1.5л холодного чаю - и всё! Вперед, навстречу приключениям и ночной Ая-Напе, местной мекке молодежного туризма. Впереди двое суток полного распоряжения мотоциклом, на ногах кеды, на голове каска, за спиной любимая девушка, бак полон, ночь длинна! :)
Выехали в 4 часа дня с копейками, уже почти не жарко, солнце в спину, не слепит, постепенно приспосабливаюсь к мотоциклу - после перерыва в несколько месяцев ехать на двух колёсах, да ещё и с пассажиркой немного непривычно, и дорожное движение как-то напрягает - но через 20-30 км всё приходит в норму, привал чтобы помочить ноги в море, умыться солёной водой - и вот уже всё тип-топ :)

Заехали в Camel-парк покормить верблюдов и размять конечности - верблюды всё такие же забавные и ненасытные, сладкие рожки (это местные плоды такие) выхватывают прямо из рук, если видят пустые руки - мгновенно теряют интерес к человеческой персоне.

Уже в сумерках подыскали в окрестностях Ая-Напы место у моря, отдалённо напоминающее подходящее для ночевки под открытым воздухом (на случай если очень захочется спать тут и не возвращаться домой по темноте). Ну и отправились гулять и веселиться! Мотоцикл с вещами оставили в каком-то закоулке, как искать вроде запомнили, и айда гулять! Лунапарк = веселуха :) Слонялись мы там из угла в угол... Смотрели-смотрели, клювом щелкали-щелкали, даже на американских как-бы горках прокатились, да и забрели в игровые автоматы! Всё фигня, кроме пчел... т.е. кроме мотосимулятора ЛеМанс! Реальный стрит-нейкед-спорт почти настоящего размера, огромный экран перед тобой, динамик в глушителе весело отзывается на ручку газа, а главное - повороты проходятся наклоном тела, обратная связь колбасит шо тока держись коленками за бак! К счастью, мотоцикл пока не сбрасывает с себя седока по-настоящему, а то это было бы слишком уж интересно ;)

Отдали должное дискобарам в особом микрорайоне Ая-Напы: несколько коротеньких улочек сплошь состоят из дискобаров открытых и крытых вперемешку с клубами, молодежь преимущественно анличане всякие и аборигены (киприоты), русских (что странно!) практически нет, хотя всё время казалось, что каждая симпотичная девчонка русская - ни фига, не отличишь молодую инглишменку от соотечественницы визуально... :) Музыка ревет со всех сторон одновременно, самые подорванные представительницы танцуют в миниюбках на столах, пьяные тусовки, полуголые "феи", зазывалы, вешающиеся на тебя каждых 5 метров и обещающие от одного до пяти(!) "shoot'ов" (стопариков) на шару, если мы выберем именно их заведение. Когда мы решились вернуться оттуда и оставить у мотоцикла изрядно надоевший уже рюкзак (все люди как люди, а я как тело с рюкзаком ;) - оказалось, что не всё так просто в королевстве датском... нифига не запомнили в каком переулке он заныкан-то %)) Но удача любит упорных, нашли же всё-таки! Еще что поразило в Ая-Напе и окрестностях - просто нереальная плотность прокатных скутеров - пункты проката расположены примерно каждые 20 метров, и вообще этих жужиков с красными номерами там, пардон, как тараканов!
Часа в четыре усталость начала давать знать, ни о каком возвращении домой за сто с лишним километров уже не могло быть и речи, так что погрузились на два колеса и поехали на примеченное место - СПАТЬ!!! Хе, ещё хохма: в Ая-Напе компьютерный клуб. Подъехал полисмен на белом бимере RT с мигалками, осмотрелся с серьёзным видом, со шлемом в руках зашел внутрь, сел за комп... Через минуту подъехал другой полис, на таком же моце, серьёзно осмотрелся - последовал за ним. Ночь на дворе, а полиция в игрушки на компах играется :))

Утро воскресенья после двух часов сна началось как-то рано: рыбаки вокруг, солнце ещё не взошло - а уже понятно, что спать дальше нельзя! Домой ехать совсем не хотелось - решили потихоньку двигать через весь остров, чтобы к вечеру быть на "северном море", т.е. на северном побережье!

Прокатившись вдоль восточного побережья, взяли курс на запад и пилили неспешно аж до тех пор, пока всё не надоело и жутко захотелось спать! Усугубляла жуткая жара - на то воскресенье прогноз обещал рекордно высокую температуру, порядка +40 в тени :( Решение явилось в виде отдельно стоящего посреди убраного пшеничного поля дерева - тень! спать!!!
Проснулся я оттого что Зойка завизжала и убежала прочь от дерева с криками "КРЫСА!!!" Очухавшись, выяснил расположение зверька: крыс действительно спал ррровнёхонько над нашими головами! :) Мирно так спал пузом на ветке под птичьим гнездом, свесив по разные стороны все четыре лапки, носик и хвостик, прям-таки по-кашачьи фривольно! Крысов носик при этом что-то регулярно начмокивал, до нас ему было глубоко урусай ('пох' - яп.) ;-)

В незнакомой местности ориентировка по карте порой весьма занимательна: обозначена дорога между деревнями в нужном нам направлении... На выезде из деревушки весёленькое предупреждение: "Не приближаться, запретная зона, опасно - смерть" (табличка, по доброй традиции, пробита пулями и побита дробью) ...ну мы покумекали-покумекали, всё-таки аборигены вроде как на эту дорогу указали - и поехали. Смерть не видели (и слава всем богам), а вот дорога просёлочная петляла по какой-то мрачной полупустыне, и вывела нас (ну конечно же!) совсем не в ту деревню :)

Только часам к четырём начались кое-какие горы, и сплошной встречный поток автомобилей - наверное, жители столицы воскресным вечером возвращаются с побережья домой, в центр острова. Как-то вдруг после одного поворота ленивая горная дорога неожиданно превратилась в реальный серпантин! Каждый второй поворот - на 120-150 градусов, каждый третий - закрытый вокруг скалы! По таким горам ехать мы как-бы не планировали, но так уж получилось! Красота! Хвойный лес по обе стороны дороги, экипировка шорты + футболка позволяет во всей полноте прочувствовать мгновенную смену температур: солнечная сторона оч тёплая, тень горы - резкая прохлада! А воздух! А запахи! Мотоцикал тут не чета авто :) Хе! Зоя меня толкает в бок: "Видишь камень на дороге?", "Слепой поворот!", "Там встречная!!!" :) Скорость 30-50кмч, в вторая-третья передача, редко когда 50 метров прямой дороги, асфальт хороший, но частые камни и песок держат в постоянном напряжении - и так километр за километром, час за часом! Хохма: встречная легковушка с прокатными номерами, молодая пара чего-то посмеивается с нас, мы прикалываемся с них - вот типа они не знают куда едут! Им же ещё часа два по серпантину прилять и пилять, до темноты не успеют чай :) А у нас впереди (по карте!) спуск да спуск, прямая дорога! В общем, в таком вот серпантине нас потихоньку натигла темнота... Скорость ещё немного упала, фары светят исправно и ярко, моц технически исправен 100%, и даже ума хватило заправиться заранее с запасом. Километры текут медленно но уверенно, и, наконец-то! Невидимое и неслышное ещё море дало о себе знать резким повышением температуры и нереальной влажностью: моментально стали мокрые. Ночевку устроли быстро и очень даже успешно: в полукилометре от прибрежной деревушки, у скал в 15м от воды. На песке тепло и мягко!

Утром проснулись отдохнувшими и готовыми с любым подвигам! Окунулись в "северном" море, и двинули вперед вдоль побережья. Утром и серпантин-то кажется совсем не страшным, а после вчерашней супер-тренировки мотоцикл ложится в повороты практически сам, и причём сразу как надо :) Зоя уже не толкает под бок, предупреждая о каких-то засадах, а с досадой высказывается, мол, "что за виражи такие слабые, даже сфотать нечего!" :) Горы, побережье, синее море, лыжные трассы, бесснежные в это время года - всё чем-то похоже на ЮБК, хотя, пожалуй, не так величественно, но всё же красиво. Серпантин вскоре закончился и километры побежали куда быстрее. Но, вместе с тем, дорога становилась более скучной и знакомой - это уже просто возвращенье домой, "в суету городов", чтобы сдать мотоцикл, и, переполненными ощущеньями, упасть на подушку - отсыпаца, отсыпаца, отсыпаца!

P.S.: Еще интересное наблюдение: мотоциклисты в городе и за городом очень отличаются. В городе два основных типажа, полуголый поц в шортах и максимум футболке, на жутко рычащем стритованном спорте (обычно GSXR1100), или такой же типок в немецкой каске на любовно протертом тряпочкой чопе. Эти оба не катаются далее 5км от дома. За городом мотоциклисты другие, серьёзнее что-ли! Без шлемов уже никого нет, если спорт - чел в комбезе, если чоп или дорожник - с рюкзаком или ещё чем, но видно, что чел катается по-серьёзному! Так вот. Моргнул дальним встречному - он тоже мигнул :) Где-то на пустой дороге могнул светом компании из четырёх Африк-Трансальпов - они по очереди отмигали, отбибикали и даже руками помахать умудрились! Приятно, черт возьми, от доброжелательного отношения на дороге, такое чувство появляется, вроде как "наши в городе" :)

Обновлено 04.01.2013 15:09
 
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