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Покатушки в Израиле

Январские покатушки.

Мало кто может похвастаться тем, что в начале января катался на мотоцикле. Теперь, мы с Танюшкой можем смело причислить себя к числу тех, кто гордится, что начал новый год на двух колесах . Просто нам повезло. Два года назад нам посчастливилось познакомиться с Андреем "From" из Тель-Авива, который приехал на мотофестиваль ЛКЛ. История о том как мы встретились, как провели те незабываемые два дня заслуживает отдельной страницы. С тех пор, когда мы в Израиле, обязательно встречаемся. И этот год не был исключением. Разница была лишь в том, что Андрей нам предложил присоединиться к Израильскому Мотоклубу в очередной экскурсии. Так уж получилось, что у партнера Фромыча, так мы ласково его называем, по работе, был новенький EN500. На нем-то нам, как истинным вулканологам и предстояло опробовать израильские дороги.

Наше мотоснаряжение весило 15 кг. Это была такая большая сумка с двумя шлемами, с которых мы заранее сняли стекла, завернутыми в куртки, плюс штаны, перчатки, свитера на случай холода и разная мелочь. Каждый раз, когда сумка просвечивалась на таможне (это и внутренние и международные рейсы) секьюрити испуганно вопрошали: "Что это там у вас!?" Узнав что это мотоодежда они весело нам подмигивали :) Мелочь, а приятно. Все перелеты позади и 4-го числа, вечером мы тепло обнимаемся с мокрым от дождя Фромом. Мы разместились в гостинице, неподалеку от стоянки, где стояли мотоцикл Андрея и наш загадочный вулканчик. Конечно, первым делом мы ринулись здороваться с израильтянами: BMW и EN500, смирно стояли в стойбище, заботливо укрытые чехлами, и пристегнутые за передние и задние колеса. Оказывается, если страхуешь мотоцикл от угона, то положено, чтобы оба колеса были застегнуты за неподвижные объекты, только при выполнении этого условия выплачивается страховая сумма. Мотоцикл оказался действительно новый - 2500 км на спидометре. На нем стояли задний верхний кофр и стекло. Мы поздоровались, но похоже Вулкан плохо понимал по-русски, поэтому отреагировал как-то холодно. В этот же день мы поехали на местный байкерский сходняк. Что-то вроде нашей смотровой, только публика старше. Все так же как и у нас: кофе, пиво бутерброды, мотокаталоги, дорожные истории, планы на будущее и все такое. Мотоциклов было немного, приезжали больше на машинах, из-за дождя.

Мы провели несколько дней в поездках по городу, посещениях мотосалонов, осмотрах достопримечательностей. Андрюха устроил нам великолепную прогулку на яхте. Ощущения незабываемые. Спасибо таблеткам, которыми нас накормил Фромыч иначе... даже трудно представить как море остается еще таким чистым! Одновременное ощущение полной свободы и собственной ничтожности. Это нечто!

В субботу утром мы уже на стоянке, в полной боевой экипировке. На улице ярко светит солнце, голубое небо и температура градусов 25. Оделись, стали прогревать мотоциклы. Андрюхин Бимер завелся сразу, а наш Вулканчик что-то захандрил. Мы его завели, но он жалобно чихнул и мотор умер. Ловкими руками механика Фром извлек из-под бака свечи. "Капут" - вынесли мы дружно диагноз. Это также означал капут нашей поездке с клубом: они скорее всего уже уехали... В голову полезли всякие бредовые мысли типа: " Ну вот, почему так не везет. Облом, вот и покатались..." ну и в этом духе. Дело в том, что в Израиле суббота - священный день, праздник "шаббат". Ничто, никто и нигде не работает. Даже мотомагазины со свечами. Работают арабские магазины, но мотоциклетных свечей у них не было. Мы все еще пытались реанимировать старые свечи, бегали вприпрыжку, толкая мотоцикл по стоянке. Мне это напомнило детские годы и тщетные попытки завести "чеку" с разобранным мотором :) Андрей стал придумывать различные афоризмы связанные с Уралами, такой-то матерью и еще с предками этого вулкана и вообще японских мотоциклов :) Алекс, еще один русскоговорящий израильский мотоциклист предложил позвонить в контору, которая занимается эвакуированием и починкой мотоциклов, может у них есть свечи. Все тщетно. Фром приуныл, мы еще больше. По видимому, осуществить нашу давнишнюю мечту нам не удастся.

В 50 километрах от Тель-Авива жил еще один участник русской мототусовки - Стас. У него и оказались нужные нам свечи, которые он снял с проданного им GPZ500. На Гольфе, мы рванули в Хадеру. Таким образом, поиск свечей позволил нам собрать небольшую компанию мотоциклистов, завести Вулкан и подумать куда мы едем. Мы с Танюшкой были на седьмом небе от внезапно свалившегося счастья и через несколько минут уже сидели верхом на ЕН-ке :) Общими усилиями решили съездить в Кесарию - это старинный порт, километрах в 60 от Тель-Авива. Так и сделали. По шоссе ехали BMW F650, EN500 и GPZ500. Нас было 6 человек.

Дороги в Израиле, в принципе неплохие. Хотя, Московская МКАД даст сто очков вперед местным магистралям. Однако, что больше всего импонирует любому водителю - это информативность. Тамошние дороги как будто разговаривают с тобой: везде знаки, указатели, разметка. Ориентироваться оказалось легче, чем я себе это представлял: в Израиле используется голландская дорожная система. На перекрестках, как правило 2 светофора: один специально налево (зеленый, не стрелка) с отдельным рядом или даже двумя, и один светофор прямо (тоже зеленый). Над каждым светофором стоят знаки "Движение прямо, направо или налево". Правый поворот сделан нерегулируемым, надо только пропустить пешеходов и уступить дорогу машинам едущим по главной. Широко используется круговое движение. Вопреки привычке "помехи справа", в Израиле преимущество имеет транспорт находящийся на круге, при въезде на круг, нужно всех пропустить. С круговым движением легче ориентироваться и разворачиваться. Однако есть там вещи, не предназначенные для мотоциклов: например светоотражатели на дороге. Своя сторона дороги - оранжевая, встречная - красная. На этих катафотах можно очень легко подскользнуться и упасть. Стас, парамедик Скорой Помощи, рассказывал много таких случаев. Разметка тоже скользкая, так говорят ребята, но я не почувствовал. Водители внимательно следят за дорогой. Раздвигаются давая проехать между рядами, притормаживают открывая возможность для обгона.

Это было мое первое знакомство с EN500. Поначалу мне показалось, что он хлипкий, уж больно сильно его колбасило в поворотах, накачали колеса и все встало на свои места. EN юркий и резвый мотоцикл. Несмотря на свои 500 кубов он оказался очень динамичным, с хорошими характеристиками двигателя. Однако рядник - не V-Twin, и мне было трудно привыкнуть к высоким оборотам. В который раз убедился в том, что стекла - это для машин. На нашем мотоцикле стояло высокое стекло Givi, ну очень неудобно смотреть через 3 слоя прозрачного пластика (очки, шлем и ветровик) хотя это может быть делом привычки.

Наконец мы в Кесарии: старинные стены, красная земля, бушующее Средиземное Море. Это очень красиво. Голубое небо, солнце, неподалеку наши мотоциклы, все просто здорово. Мы погуляли там немного, полюбовались развалинами древних зданий, морем и волнами развивающимися о высокий берег и внезапно обнаружили, что все проголодались. Стас предложил нам съездить в арабский ресторан, отведать местные кулинарные изыски. Мясо там готовят на 5 с десятью плюсами, это просто нечто. Впрочем что рассказывать, это надо попробовать самим.

Незаметно пролетело пол дня. Симе, на GPZ500 уже пора было уезжать, Стас уехал с ним вместе, заодно пригласив нас к себе в гости вечером. Остались мы вчетвером: я с Танюшкой и Фромыч с Алексом. Мы не спеша собрались, оделись, прогрели мотоциклы и тронулись в Хадеру, к Стасу. Андрей шел впереди, и я любовался его Биммером. Красивая машина, необычная. Главная гордость Андрюхи - это чемоданы, помятые из-за раздвигания машин в пробках :) Попутно, я боролся с лобовым стеклом, которое мне никак не давало покоя.

Мы прибываем на место встречи и ждем. Вдалеке слышен странный, быстро приближающийся звук. Это Стас на своем CBR 900 с тюнинговым выпуском. Где он успевает его разгонять? От круга до круга метров по 200, только разогнался и по тормозам.

Расположившись на крыше уютного домика у Стаса, попивая кофеек и чаек, мы разговариваем о своем родном. О мотоциклах у нас и у них, о движении, рассказываем курьезные и смешные истории из собственного опыта или увиденных картин, обсуждаем свежие мотожурналы, коих в Израиле имеется в избытке (наряду с израильским "Мото" продаются так же английские, американские, немецкие и французские журналы, даже наш "Мото" есть). Вот уже и стемнело, появилась усталость, а ведь еще ехать... Правда расстояния смешные - что такое 50 километров? Проехав немного на мотоцикле уже не хочется с него слезать, моя бы воля, катался бы всю ночь. Но завтра всем работать, это мы тут туристы... :) Приезжаем на стоянку, застегиваем и накрываем мотоциклы, желаем им спокойной ночи и расходимся по домам, зная, что потом мы будем с радостью вспоминать этот прекрасный день.

 

 
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